Phukhao Thong Temple Fair: A Centuries-Old Thai Tradition
Have you ever experienced the lively ambiance of a Thai temple fair? Imagine a place filled with colorful lights, pulsating music, and the joyous chatter of crowds. These fairs aren't just religious gatherings; they're also vibrant community events that offer entertainment for all!
In Thailand, temple fairs have evolved into integral parts of society, especially in rural areas. These traditional events bring together people from near and far, providing a space for both spiritual devotion and communal fun. While maintaining a focus on Buddhist rituals, the fairs also offer a wide range of secular activities, from traditional games and amusement rides to local food stalls and cultural performances.
From children’s rides like swings and merry-go-rounds to thrilling games like darts and shooting galleries, there's something for everyone at a Thai temple fair. This is a festival you should not miss once you are in Thailand. The festive atmosphere is further enhanced by local food stalls and markets, offering a delicious array of traditional Thai dishes. Cultural performances such as Likay (Thai Traditional Dramatic Performance “ลิเก”), Lamtad (Thai-Style Antiphon “ลำตัด”), add to the entertainment, making these fairs a beloved tradition among locals.
Phukhao Thong Temple Fair has been an integral part of Thai culture for centuries. This vibrant event, full with colorful displays, delectable food, and exciting games, has its roots in the desire to bring communities together and celebrate religious sites and artifacts.
According to the Royal Gazette, Volume 7, in 1890, Wat Saket, or the Golden Mount Temple, was the first temple to host such a large-scale fair. Its popularity soared dramatically, and people eagerly awaited this annual event, making Phukhao Thong (literally translated as 'Phukhao' meaning 'mountain' and 'Thong' meaning 'gold') the oldest temple fair in Bangkok.
The tradition of the Phukhao Thong Temple Fair dates back to the early Rattanakosin period, when Bangkok was first established. King Rama I ,around the late 17th century, ordered the construction of a canal near the temple, now known as the Mahanak Canal (or Khlong Mahanak). This canal was modeled after the Mahanak Canal in Ayutthaya, which had been dug long ago to protect the city during times of war. After the conflict ended, the canal was repurposed as a waterway for transportation and as a venue for boat-based musical performances (การเล่นเพลงเรือ).
King Rama I, the first monarch of Bangkok, hoped to recreate the prosperity of the old capital. To that end, he ordered the digging of the Mahanak Canal, enabling the people to enjoy boat races and poetic performances, much like they had in the former city of Ayutthaya. In addition, he had the Golden Mount built near the canal to replicate the Golden Mount and canals of Ayutthaya. He also oversaw the restoration of “Wat Sakae”, an ancient temple from the Ayutthaya period, which was subsequently renamed “Wat Saket”.
You may wonder why this festival has endured for such a long time. One reason is that the Mahanak Canal facilitated a wide range of water-based activities, reflecting the deep-rooted connection between the Thai people and water. This bond is evident in countless cultural traditions, customs, and festivals, many of which center around water. These aquatic celebrations often incorporate ancient beliefs and rituals that have been passed down through generations. Additionally, the timing of the festival aligns with the changing weather and landscape conditions. Temple fairs are typically held towards the end of the year, around October, as this period marks the end of the rainy season when water levels begin to recede. This allows people to gather along the banks of canals and rivers to take part in various activities.
The famous Loy Krathong, the Festival of Lights, is also closely associated with this temple in terms of its strategy and illustrating locals ' way of life with water. During the festival, people release floating lanterns onto waterways to pay respect to the goddess of water and seek forgiveness from the deities.
Until the reign of King Rama V, around the late 18th century ,the iconic Golden Mount was completed, and sacred relics were brought from India. To commemorate this event, a grand seven-day celebration was held during the Loy Krathong festival, further solidifying the temple fair as a significant religious and cultural occasion.
Now, let’s talk about a highlight ritual held every year at this sacred temple: the tradition of draping the Golden Mount with a red cloth. This practice dates back to the reign of King Rama V, over 130 years ago. Each year, devotees write their names, surnames, and wishes on the cloth, believing that this act will bring good fortune and protection. Once the cloth is wrapped around the Golden Mount, it symbolizes the start of the annual pilgrimage.
You may wonder, why must the cloth be red? According to ancient beliefs, the color red was believed to have special significance, as it was associated with auspiciousness in traditional beliefs. It is thought that those who participate in this ritual will experience peace, prosperity, and protection from harm.
The 2024 Phukhao Thong Temple Fair, held from November 8th to 17th, marked the return of the event after a four-year hiatus due to the COVID-19 pandemic. As the oldest and grandest temple fair in Bangkok, it drew eager crowds and excited vendors. With plenty of space around the temple, a wide variety of food stalls filled the grounds, offering everything from seafood to refreshing coconut drinks. You could enjoy games like dart throwing or shooting for stuffed animals, paint plaster figures, or ride the Ferris wheel for a panoramic view of the fairgrounds.
Here are some fun facts for your visit to the Golden Mount Temple, or Wat Saket. If you plan to visit, be sure to see the Buddha image known as Luang Pho To. This statue dates back to the reign of King Rama III, who ordered its creation because the area was densely populated at the time, and he wanted to provide a place for people to worship. Even today, many still come to pay their respects to Luang Pho To. This demonstrates that the beliefs, faith, and traditions associated with this place have endured for a long time and will continue to be cherished by the Thai people.
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A unique treat we recommend you try is the sugar figurines, crafted into colorful miniatures—a rare traditional Thai sweet called “Nam Tan Pun” (น้ำตาลปั้น). It’s one of the charming crafts at the center of the market! The fair also featured cultural performances from Thailand’s four regions, allowing visitors to experience local traditions. And, of course, no visit was complete without paying respects at the temple and receiving blessings from the monks.
Sounds like a cool local event, right? That’s why you shouldn’t miss the Golden Mount Temple Fair, which is only being held until November 17th. Plan your visit now!
